Going abroad can sometimes be complicated, but don't panic, France is full of magnificent places to discover. In this article, we will explore a stone fort built on a mountainside in the south of the country. Close to the Spanish border, We drove past it countless times when I was a child. This imposing building, visible from the road below always ,made me dream. I liked to imagine the life of the people who once lived in this atypical place . It has been open to visitors for a few years now, and we are going to visit it together, let’s go.
Geographical location
The "Fort du Portalet" is located in the South-West of France, in the department of Pyrénées-Atlantiques, near the Spanish border.
Built on a cliff in the Pyrenees, on several levels, the fort is at an altitude of between 700 and 800 m. Built to be inaccessible, it can only be reached on foot, by crossing a bridge over the Gave d'Aspe, before climbing the small dirt track that leads to the Fort. Once you arrive, the climb is not over yet, as the Fort has more than 250 steps... As you will have understood, the visit must be earned: a bottle of water, appropriate clothing and good shoes are essential if you wish to climb up it. This historic fort welcomes more than 4,000 visitors per year.
History of the fort
The construction of "Fort du Portalet '' began in 1842, during the reign of King Louis-Philippe, to guard the Somport Pass, a route linking France and Spain. It Its construction wasn’t completed until 1870, because of its difficult accessibility as well as the climate situation. At first, it was a military fort, able to accommodate up to 400 men, but this function was quickly abandoned. From 1925 to 1941, the Portalet fort was rented out to holiday camps, before becoming a political jail under the Vichy regime. Personalities from the French Third Republic, such as Léon Blum and Édouard Daladier, were imprisoned there by Marshal Pétain. The Fort was then commandeered by German troups until liberation in 1944. Following his trial in 1945, Marshal Pétain was imprisoned there for three months. In 1966, the Fort was officially demilitarised and, in 1999, it was bought by the Communauté des Communes, which began restoration work. The fort was declared as a historical classified monument in 2005 and is now opened to visitors, although work is still carried out from time to time, resulting in partial or complete closing.
The Portalet Fort and the Chemin de la Mâture
The Fort is an impressive building, visible from the road, as if clinging to the mountain. Built in grey stone, its architecture on several levels is perfectly symmetrical. It offers a magnificent view over the surrounding valley, visible through the loopholes or from the large terraces. It also offers an exceptional view of the Chemin de la Mâture. This is a 1,200-metre-long path cut into the rock facing the Fort. It forms a 4-metre-high and wide “gutter”, which measures over 900 metres long and overhangs the Gorges d'Enfer. It was completed in 1772, in order to bring in wood for the construction of ships. Since 2021, a 35-metre footbridge stretches over the gorges and links the Chemin de la Mâture and the Fort du Portalet.
So, ready to get out your trainers?